Holiday at home

A cup of black coffee and a Danish pastry on a table in a walled garden
Starting the week with really nice coffee

One of the most infuriating cases of semantic drift is the word staycation. It was an irritatingly twee portmanteau in the first place, but it did at least serve a useful purpose, describing that thing where you take a few days at work to stay at home and do nothing in particular, maybe take some sandwiches out to the park and read a book under a tree. I am all in favour of this. I make a point of doing it at least once a year.

But now it’s been appropriated by the travel industry to mean “a holiday in the UK”, thereby implying that a holiday that doesn’t involve a flight and a passport isn’t really a holiday, thereby attempting to make those who can’t afford or don’t want to leave the country feel bad about their circumstances or their choices.

I am not having this. If you’re leaving your house and staying somewhere else and doing something enjoyable and not working, it’s a holiday. You’re not telling me that every joyous seaside summer of my childhood was a mere staycation.

I’m not really talking about either of those things in this post, though. I’m talking about the attempt to adopt a mindset that looks something like this:

I live in a place that’s really quite beautiful and really quite interesting, the sort of place that other people visit on holiday. What can I do to appreciate this and make  it more than merely my everyday?

I mean, I got an email the other day from a steam train excursions company inviting me to go and look at “the serene beauty of Ely”, so I’m clearly onto something here. And so are they. It does have a serene beauty.

So what does it look like when I don’t, in fact, have to take a train to experience this serene beauty? Mostly, making today the day I get out for a walk/pop into that interesting-looking shop/use the coffee cup I really like/do a very bad sketch of the angel on the Old Palace. Allowing myself to take some time to be interested.

And then: How do I do this when I have a job to do and can’t just skip out to do a two-hour self-guided walk? How can I do this when funds are limited and I can’t eat at the Old Fire Engine House every week? How do I do this when non-working days are occupied with childcare? How do I do this when looking after the house is my responsibility, not that of some briefly-met and charming apartment owner or hotel proprietor? How do I do this, in short, when everything else still needs doing?

And the answer is, as it often is for me, doing what I can in the time available, and paying attention. If I would order a coffee and a pastry and sit at a table and people-watch if I were in, I don’t know, Bordeaux, I can do it in Ely. If we would go to a recommended child-friendly museum abroad – well, Ely’s museum is great, it has an exhibit where you can fill a basket with wooden vegetables, if that’s your thing, and meanwhile I learn about what keeps the landscape around me working (pumps and drainage ditches). One of these years I’m going to walk the labyrinth in Chartres cathedral, but in the meantime there’s a perfectly good one here. At home, I can take my coffee out into the garden for ten minutes, or stand at the kitchen window and watch the birds.

You might very well say that it is easy in Ely, where a wonder of the medieval world is my regular place of worship, where the tourist information centre squats in a house that belonged to a ruler of the nation, where the buildings are made of old brick that glows in autumn sunlight, where there’s a plaque commemorating James Bond’s Little Nellie on the side of the gelateria. You might very well point out that before I lived in Ely I lived in Cambridge, which must be in the top ten UK tourist cities. I’ve been in no danger of running out of things to look at.

And I would say, yes, and before Cambridge I lived in Woking (“ugh, Woking“, say colleagues), which is generally agreed to be an uninteresting commuter town in the South East – and, because I have been trying to live like this for a long time, I found interesting things there too. Woking is where the Martians land in The War of the Worlds. Once I cycled out to find the place identified in the book (it isn’t right in the centre, where the magnificent tripod sculpture stands). There’s the site of Anne Boleyn’s palace. There’s the country’s first mosque. There was an unexpected cycle race that sparked a decade-long enthusiasm for the sport. And apart from all that, I explored, I walked down streets to see what there was at the other end, I kept my eyes open. I could do that anywhere.

Julia Cameron advises taking time every week for an “artist date” – not to create art, not necessarily to experience it (though you might do), but just to fill up on colour and taste and sound and smell, to encounter something other than the inside of one’s own head, to be able to return to one’s creative work refreshed and enthused and replenished. That is part of what I’m doing here, I think.

And of course it also makes me more at home. When I follow these streets, I get to know these streets, I get to recognise my neighbours. When I know my town, I can share my town.

Do I succeed all the time? Of course not. There are plenty of days where it’s back to back meetings and lunch is a sandwich in front of the computer, and if I go into town it’s a frantic errand for a box of eggs and I don’t spare a thought for Oliver Cromwell as I dash into the Co-op opposite his house. Often the holiday at home isn’t even an aspiration, let alone a reality. But when I manage it, I enjoy it.

Sundays in the park

A circular bandstand with a blue roof stands in an almost deserted park. Under the bandstand there is one lone tuba standing upside down on its bell and one lone human

All through June and July and August, every Sunday afternoon that we weren’t doing anything else, we’ve gone down to the riverside to hear the brass band playing at the bandstand. Brass bands plural, rather; it’s a different group every week, coming in from the towns and villages all around. One thinks of brass as a Northern, industrial thing, but the council or whoever organises this doesn’t seem to have any trouble filling the schedule. Round here I suspect it’s more of a military, or legacy-military thing, or simply an enjoying-making-music thing.

It’s a lovely way to spend an afternoon, lazing under the trees, listening to live music, with the toddler running between our spot and the play area. In fact, it’s the one sort of concert where I feel really confident bringing a toddler. Maybe we send someone along the riverbank to the ice cream van.

It’s a brilliant community thing. The audience is always a mixture of friends of the band, regulars (their numbers growing through the summer as more and more people catch on) and passers-by. Last week we got there slightly late and found that our next door neighbours, plus extended family, had set up just in front of our usual spot. Yesterday there was one of the nursery families, who’d really just come for the slide and been pleasantly surprised by the music.

I say brass bands. Most of them were: some called themselves jazz orchestras or swing orchestras, but either way, there was a lot of brass involved. There has to be, really, if you want to make yourself heard outdoors with minimal amplification (any singers will get a mic, likewise the bass guitar if there is one, obviously, but that’s about as far as it goes).

Anyway, there’s a wide, if predictable, repertoire. There’s the jazz and the swing, obviously, and when it was one of the less specialist groups you could generally bet on the programme including: some show tunes, probably in medley form, a military march or two, some film music,  TV themes (I know I’ve played that Star Trek compilation at some Saturday morning youth music scheme, a decade and a half before I saw any Trek, and I played cello; there must have been a version for full orchestra), a hymn, and some classic rock. It is extremely accessible, and that is entirely appropriate for the time and place. On Sunday I was standing next the climbing frame, alternately offering encouragement and singing along with The Teddy Bears’ Picnic (and getting a little thrown by the repeats not coming where I expected them).

It’s been hot, and dry (you may have noticed). Most weeks, the audience must have been hard to spot from the bandstand, hiding under trees or any other patch of shade. The grass got progressively more parched. The musicians generally took their jackets off. The willow trees stayed green, but there was a depressing expanse of yellow between us and them, and the sky was aggressively blue. This was about the only bearable outdoor activity. Abide with me, the band played a couple of weeks ago, fast falls the eventide, in glaring sunshine. Mind you, up the hill at the cathedral Evensong would just have started.

As the summer wore on, we evolved more and more elaborate seating arrangements (we are, I should say, by no means the only people with folding chairs and a festival trolley). Sometimes I brought a flask of tea; occasionally, a cake from the market; often, a punnet of strawberries. Somebody always has a better-looking picnic: full marks to the people the other week who’d fixed themselves up with a cream tea complete with fizz. My own Glyndebourne-level aspirations will have to wait another year.

Because it’s over. This Sunday was the last concert of the year. It was a bit of a toss-up whether we’d make it, having been away the night before. I’m glad we did. It was the right way to round out August. One last trip to the ice cream van. Some absolute bangers (technical term). A late, blessed, prolonged soaking has turned the grass green again. Towering grey clouds hint at more if we’re lucky. The folding chairs are back in the garage. The Lord’s My Shepherd (tune: Crimond), always imbued for me with a slightly beery, teary nostalgia, is lingering in my head, but the last tuba player has packed up and gone home.

Ely, hollyhock season

A street of nineteenth century houses, mostly terraced, with tall pink and white flowers bursting out of the front gardens

Summer. Nutholt Lane, Silver Street, Chapel Street. The hollyhocks assert their authority once again. In June they shoot upwards and present massed bands of trumpet flowers. Ice cream colours: white, pink, maybe the deep magenta of an upmarket blackcurrant sorbet. The tallest of them tower several feet overhead, and even the short ones spill out onto the pavement as if by right. They take over the front gardens, claiming every square foot of gravel, taking advantage of any crack in the tarmac. Chapel Street is especially blessed with an exuberant forest of hollyhocks. Who needs a driveway, anyway?

Now, at the end of July, they’re fading. There are still plenty of flowers, but further down the stem there are ring-shaped seed heads ripening and drying, exposing seeds packed tightly, vertically, like slides in an old-fashioned projector. More next year. We’ll do this all over again.

Twelfth day (note to self: things get better)

A car parked on a snowy street. Someone has written "MERRY XMAS" in the snow on the rear windscreen.

It snowed overnight! We don’t get much of it round here; in fact, it’s been almost exactly a year. So either the perpetrator of this mild act of vandalism is keeping the full twelve days of Christmas, or else someone’s driven in quite a long way without clearing their back windscreen.

Anyway, this time last year we had a pathetic little dusting of snow, and I was in bed, in a good deal of pain and unable to keep any food down, as the leftover gas from my gallbladder removal surgery fought its way around my abdomen. (What sorted it out, for anyone in similar straits, was a little pill called Wind-eze. The packet wasn’t very clear on how it works, but it does.) Today, by contrast, I was able to walk across town in my Wellington boots, stopping at the cathedral to walk the labyrinth (still in wellies – that’s a first!) and eat the last cherry cream choux bun in Caffè Nero. So, contrary to my gloomy posts of the last month, I can and do get better.

And it really was ridiculously beautiful. See:

Thinking of big skies

Grey road, grey sky, bare trees, green field, band of pale pink at the horizon

I took a slightly longer walk today, long enough for my legs to stop feeling wobbly and then start feeling wobbly again. I came out from the corridor of trees and stopped at the road for longer than I usually would, noticing the pull of the flat land beyond the A10. It was cold, and there was no sun so it felt colder, and I would have liked to cross the main road and walk out under the grey sky towards the band of pale pink. Instead, I carried on, noticing how very cold it was, how very bare the trees, how very spiky their twigs. I reminded myself that I wasn’t going to feel this weak forever, that this wasn’t COVID or pregnancy, that it was going to be a matter of days rather than months. Thought that I ought to pump up the tyres of my road bike for when I should be ready to cross the road, but not yet. Then, in the trees, birdsong: I guessed it was a robin, and then looked up, and up, and saw it at the very top.

Regaining range

Tarmac path with hedges on both sides and a tree with yellow leaves rising from the left

It’s been a while since I walked my usual walk. Last month I slipped getting out of the shower and bashed my knee: I couldn’t get downstairs for three days, it took me seven to get out of the house, and for several weeks more it was painful if I moved it the wrong way. You can imagine how frustrating this was. Even now I can’t straighten my leg fully. Then I’ve had various things to buy and places to be, so I’ve been using my walking energy getting into town. But today I went out and I walked for fifty minutes, just for the pleasure of going for a walk. It was great.