Holiday at home

A cup of black coffee and a Danish pastry on a table in a walled garden
Starting the week with really nice coffee

One of the most infuriating cases of semantic drift is the word staycation. It was an irritatingly twee portmanteau in the first place, but it did at least serve a useful purpose, describing that thing where you take a few days at work to stay at home and do nothing in particular, maybe take some sandwiches out to the park and read a book under a tree. I am all in favour of this. I make a point of doing it at least once a year.

But now it’s been appropriated by the travel industry to mean “a holiday in the UK”, thereby implying that a holiday that doesn’t involve a flight and a passport isn’t really a holiday, thereby attempting to make those who can’t afford or don’t want to leave the country feel bad about their circumstances or their choices.

I am not having this. If you’re leaving your house and staying somewhere else and doing something enjoyable and not working, it’s a holiday. You’re not telling me that every joyous seaside summer of my childhood was a mere staycation.

I’m not really talking about either of those things in this post, though. I’m talking about the attempt to adopt a mindset that looks something like this:

I live in a place that’s really quite beautiful and really quite interesting, the sort of place that other people visit on holiday. What can I do to appreciate this and make  it more than merely my everyday?

I mean, I got an email the other day from a steam train excursions company inviting me to go and look at “the serene beauty of Ely”, so I’m clearly onto something here. And so are they. It does have a serene beauty.

So what does it look like when I don’t, in fact, have to take a train to experience this serene beauty? Mostly, making today the day I get out for a walk/pop into that interesting-looking shop/use the coffee cup I really like/do a very bad sketch of the angel on the Old Palace. Allowing myself to take some time to be interested.

And then: How do I do this when I have a job to do and can’t just skip out to do a two-hour self-guided walk? How can I do this when funds are limited and I can’t eat at the Old Fire Engine House every week? How do I do this when non-working days are occupied with childcare? How do I do this when looking after the house is my responsibility, not that of some briefly-met and charming apartment owner or hotel proprietor? How do I do this, in short, when everything else still needs doing?

And the answer is, as it often is for me, doing what I can in the time available, and paying attention. If I would order a coffee and a pastry and sit at a table and people-watch if I were in, I don’t know, Bordeaux, I can do it in Ely. If we would go to a recommended child-friendly museum abroad – well, Ely’s museum is great, it has an exhibit where you can fill a basket with wooden vegetables, if that’s your thing, and meanwhile I learn about what keeps the landscape around me working (pumps and drainage ditches). One of these years I’m going to walk the labyrinth in Chartres cathedral, but in the meantime there’s a perfectly good one here. At home, I can take my coffee out into the garden for ten minutes, or stand at the kitchen window and watch the birds.

You might very well say that it is easy in Ely, where a wonder of the medieval world is my regular place of worship, where the tourist information centre squats in a house that belonged to a ruler of the nation, where the buildings are made of old brick that glows in autumn sunlight, where there’s a plaque commemorating James Bond’s Little Nellie on the side of the gelateria. You might very well point out that before I lived in Ely I lived in Cambridge, which must be in the top ten UK tourist cities. I’ve been in no danger of running out of things to look at.

And I would say, yes, and before Cambridge I lived in Woking (“ugh, Woking“, say colleagues), which is generally agreed to be an uninteresting commuter town in the South East – and, because I have been trying to live like this for a long time, I found interesting things there too. Woking is where the Martians land in The War of the Worlds. Once I cycled out to find the place identified in the book (it isn’t right in the centre, where the magnificent tripod sculpture stands). There’s the site of Anne Boleyn’s palace. There’s the country’s first mosque. There was an unexpected cycle race that sparked a decade-long enthusiasm for the sport. And apart from all that, I explored, I walked down streets to see what there was at the other end, I kept my eyes open. I could do that anywhere.

Julia Cameron advises taking time every week for an “artist date” – not to create art, not necessarily to experience it (though you might do), but just to fill up on colour and taste and sound and smell, to encounter something other than the inside of one’s own head, to be able to return to one’s creative work refreshed and enthused and replenished. That is part of what I’m doing here, I think.

And of course it also makes me more at home. When I follow these streets, I get to know these streets, I get to recognise my neighbours. When I know my town, I can share my town.

Do I succeed all the time? Of course not. There are plenty of days where it’s back to back meetings and lunch is a sandwich in front of the computer, and if I go into town it’s a frantic errand for a box of eggs and I don’t spare a thought for Oliver Cromwell as I dash into the Co-op opposite his house. Often the holiday at home isn’t even an aspiration, let alone a reality. But when I manage it, I enjoy it.

Art month

Four glass beads on a page of pencil drawings of stones and seashells, on a collage of flyers and stickers

I like July. It’s my birthday month. There’s plenty of daylight. Granted, I am not particularly keen on the heat, but I much prefer it in July, when there’s the imminent prospect of a retreat to the coast and a difference of five degrees or so.

And even now, long after I left full-time education, there’s a glorious sense of end-of-termness about it. Holiday. I can do as I like.

Sometimes that takes more work than you’d think. Sometimes inertia and life in general and notions of extravagance combine to stop me doing as I like. Sometimes I have to make quite an effort, buy myself tickets so that I have to use them rather than talking myself out of going to whatever it was. Prompted by Julia Cameron’s concept of “artist dates” (not a term that comes naturally to me; I have renamed them “rendez-vous”, which strikes the right balance of glamour and self-mocking pretentiousness for me) I try to take myself out once a week for something entertaining or thought-provoking or indulgent.

It’s not as if there’s nothing out there. I work in London, where if it turns out the Somerstown People’s History Museum is closed (it always has been when I’ve tried to go to it, and it’s always open when I dash past on the way to catch my train home) I can look at an exhibition about cancer treatments at the Crick, or if I daren’t go to Gay’s The Word for fear of accidentally spending forty quid I can go to the British Library and stay away from the shop. I live in Ely, which has plenty going on in its own right and is only a quarter of an hour away from Cambridge to boot. I ought to be able to manage something every Thursday (or maybe Friday), even if it’s only an ice cream flavour I haven’t tried before (Ruby Violet in London; Hadi’s Gelato or Ely Fudge Company or Cherry Hill Chocolates in Ely). And when I do, I’m glad I did. I’ve learned something, or seen something differently, or tasted something new. If it hasn’t been fun (and it very often is) or moving, it will at least have been interesting.

July feels like a whole month of that. Somehow, it’s all much easier in July.

In the last few years – let’s say, six – I’ve been visiting some of the artists who take part in Cambridge Open Studios. The definition of ‘Cambridge’ turns out to be rather loose, and there are a dozen or so in Ely too. (One of them, Andrée Bowmer, made the lovely glass beads in the picture at the top of this post.) July 2022 was busier than either of the last two years, but I got around about half the artists in between my other weekend commitments.

Last week I was down on the Isle of Wight for Ventnor Fringe. I spend all year looking forward to Fringe and it always passes in a gorgeous haze of seeing things (art, shows) I might otherwise pass by and also lounging around at the Book Bus doing nothing. (This year I sold two books despite doing nothing.) It’s like people put on an entire arts festival just to celebrate my birthday. It’s brilliant. This year I went to two circuses, a drag show, an improvised Importance of Being Earnest, two small solo gigs (one in a barber shop, but not barbershop), no, hang on, I forgot about the vicar singing Dylan (very well), and a concert featuring a Scottish harp and a Finnish kantele.

But now Fringe is over and it’s August. I’m feeling a bit flat, I have to admit. Mind you, I was expecting to. But I’m also feeling the urge to read more, read more of the books that make me stop reading and look out of the window and think, go to the theatre more, and listen to more live music. I could do that. I could do all of that. The house is full of books, some of which I brought home from the Book Bus last week, or last year. There are free organ recitals at the cathedral every Sunday all summer… Last year I managed to get to all six Cambridge Shakespeare Festival shows. Well, this year I’ve missed all the July ones, but August’s still there, and I seem to have a lot more evenings free this month. And it’s still ice cream weather.